Traditions 2022 – abstracts close soon

The word from Oamaru is that the abstracts are coming in for the 2022 CTANZ symposium, Traditions, and they’re great, but there’s still time to add your own take on the theme to the selection. What with one thing and another, the submission date was extended to Sunday 14 November 2021, so you’ve still got two weekends (and the days before and between) to gather your thoughts and get them in. Details on format and possible areas for observance or departure are on our symposium page.

As for the symposium itself, obviously, it’s in Oamaru, at the beautiful Oamaru Opera House (we’re going fancy). Oamaru’s easily reached on State Highway 1 and it looks to be well supplied with accommodation of all kinds, and other attractions. More information will be posted closer to next year. But meanwhile, get your abstracts in!

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Armchair access

It’s a bit difficult to engage with the material world at the moment, but don’t despair, there are a few things you can check out online.

Beginning with buttons: the treat that is the biennial button exhibition at Auckland’s Masterworks Gallery. The opening was stymied by lockdown, but the catalogue is available online. Nearly 200 beautiful buttons to admire or covet.

Most urgently, the Selvedge World Fair is on this week, with talks of particular interest to Aotearoa New Zealand on the morning of 4 September. This converts to around 11am NZ time, but ticketholders will be able to access talks as podcasts as well.

This is Around the world in 24 hours, aka Create Day,a 24-hour programme of talks, Q&As, film screenings, artisan interviews, studio visits which will be live-streamed from New Zealand, Hong Kong, Egypt, India, Azerbaijan, England, Mexico, and Canada. Listen to experts share their textile knowledge as the virtual microphone is passed from country to country throughout the day. Each satellite host will curate a two hour slot that explores the indigenous textiles produced in that region through talks, Q&A sessions, artisan interviews, studio visits and film screenings.

One of the subjects to be discussed will be Otago Museum’s Fashion Forward exhibition, which is now offering an online tour ( you may need to update or vary your browser to view).

Enjoy.

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2022 Symposium, Call for Papers

Traditions: observance or departure

13-15 May 2022 – Oamaru Opera House, Oamaru

The theme for the 2022 symposium provides space to explore how various traditions inform our understandings of costumes and textiles. Given it is the 20th anniversary of CTANZ in 2022 there is also scope to reflect on our own history over the last two decades.

We invite papers of 20 minutes duration followed by Q&A on topics that explore aspects of Traditions, including but not limited to:

  • observances and/or departures
  • kōrero tuku iho
  • patterns, colours and labels
  • youth/generational viewpoints
  • contemporary takes and innovations
  • performance
  • tactility
  • liberation and constraint
  • reminiscence and memories

If you have any queries regarding possible paper topics/discussions please contact Chloe Searle  csearle@waitaki.govt.nz or Sue McLean hello@mcleanandco.nz

Please submit your abstract as a Word document of up to 300 words, with a short biography, and saved as surname_firstname.docx by 14 November 2021 to ctanzoamaru@gmail.com All submissions will be peer reviewed and authors advised of acceptance or not by 30th November 2021.

On the first page please include your full name, paper title, and contact email address.

  • Applicants are not required to be members of the Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand (CTANZ).
  • Final papers will be eligible for inclusion in Context, a peer reviewed CTANZ bi-annual publication.
  • Registration information for the symposium Traditions: observance or departure will be available in due course, and the programme will be advised soon after presenters have been notified.
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Symposium 2022 – save the date

Save the date: 13-15 May, Oamaru, with the theme Traditions. Keep an eye on this page and the blog for the Call for Papers, which will be coming soon. (This is a change from the originally posted date.)

As 2022 will be mark the CTANZ 20th birthday, we look forward to a very special symposium in lovely historic Oamaru.

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What’s going on…

Lots, as it happens.

First up, please note that the CTANZ website has a new web address. Please update your bookmarks to costumeandtextile.nz. The old address will redirect for a while but this is the address at which, very shortly, you will find the newlook Costume and Textile Association posts and pages.

And even though we’re still winding down from another wonderful symposium – thanks, Auckland – there’s more costume and more textiles around the country, starting this week at the University of Waikato. Curated by Liz Cooper at the Foyer Galleries, Gallagher Academy of Performing Arts, Costume & Cause, telling stories, celebrating strength, features work by Victoria McIntosh, Shona Tawhiao and Jo Torr. The work is inspired by female clothing and uses a wide range of textile techniques to consider the theme. Costume & Cause runs until 20 August, and opens Friday 28 May with a panel discussion at which Liz, Victoria, and Jo will talk with Professor Robyn Longhurst about the power of costume and accessories.

https://www.waikato.ac.nz/academy/gallery/costume-and-cause

Also on Friday 28 May only, in Wellington, the Fashion Design programme at Te Herenga Waka–Victoria University of Wellington is hosting its first one-day expo, Textile Futures: Fashion design and technology. Find out more on https://techweek.co.nz/whats-on/2021/fashion-innovation-expo-98/

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Symposium 2021 – textiles and Tāmaki

Not long now until the 2021 CTANZ symposium: Vision: Hindsight, Foresight, Insight, at AUT in central Auckland, 30 April – 2 May. Three days of presentations including keynotes by Dr Maureen Lander and Giles Peterson – you can check out the programme on our symposium page. There’s still time to register, and details on that are also on the symposium page.

There’s plenty of textile art around Auckland for visitors but even locals may not have got round to the latest exhibition: Cloth, at Masterworks Gallery on Queen Street, 17 April – 15 May, celebrating “all that is contemporary textiles in Aotearoa. ” Curated to coincide with the symposium, Cloth ‘ showcases the exciting and innovative talents working in this field today’. On Saturday morning, just before the first scheduled symposium presentation, Bronwyn Lloyd and some of the other exhibiting artists will be at Masterworks to talk about their work.

B. Lloyd Confluence Bag (Thistle) Front Image courtesy of Masterworks

Further afield, Objectspace also includes two textile artists in its Autumn exhibition, with Jade Townsend’s Te Moananui-a-Kiwa, combining natural and inorganic found objects to reflect the connections made by ocean movement. In Matua moe Tama: Weaving Within Magafaoa, Salle Tamatoa and Tunaga Funaki offer an intergenerational conversation based around Niuean weaving techniques. These exhibitions run until 30 May.

At each end of their exhibition cycle are the two major exhibitions at the city’s largest institutions. The exhibition of the year, Toi Tū Toi Ora: Contemporary Māori Art, closes 9 May, although it now offers an online option for those who either can’t get to it, or would like to work out what they want to see first. This exhibition’s textile and textile adjacent work includes two pieces by symposium keynote speaker Maureen Lander.

Te whānau raranga o Waitakere, 2018. Harakeke, muka. Artist Maureen Lander, weavers Helen Bucksey, Joy Eaton, Nina Hamill, Janie Randerson and Ann Uerata. All Rights Reserved

There’s no time pressure however for the Auckland War Memorial Museum’s Tāmaki Herenga Waka: Stories of Auckland. This recently opened new permanent gallery looks at the city’s past, present and future through a broad range of objects and arrangements, including, of course, significant textiles. A shoutout to CTANZ members who have been intimately involved with this major project.

We are fortunate to live in a country where live conferencing is possible, so keep safe for the next two weeks and we’ll see each other for Vision 2021.

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Ron Te Kawa, CoCA, March-May

Ron Te Kawa, Kapa Haka Quilt detail Welcome Home. Image supplied by Objectspace

Maungarongo (Ron) Te Kawa of Ngāti Porou has been working prolifically in fashion, art, community development and education across Aotearoa New Zealand for decades. Using sewing as a conduit to connect with people, his legendary workshops have given countless participants the confidence to create and express with fabric. His new exhibition
Hīnātore: A Time and Place to Rest, runs 13 March-22 May at Christchurch’s CoCA Centre of Contemporary Art Toi Moroki, The time and place to rest refers to the six days and nights the Matariki stars spend in a phosphorescent world “that exists to rejuvenate and grow the body, mind and spirit”. Te Kawa recreates this special place as a creative haven in the gallery with both his unique quilting style and the sewing studio within the exhibition.

Ron Te Kawa, quilt detail The Sacred Kūmara Garden Image supplied by Objectspace

“My whakapapa quilts are an invitation to celebrate the fun, colour and magic of te ao Māori and all those things that fill my heart and heal my mind and spirit. Dance, connection to wairua and nature, whānau, whenua, stories, survival, resilience.”

The CoCA show includes workshops and an artist talk. On Saturday 12 March and Thursday 29 April, Energy Signals: Flag Making with Ron Te Kawa offer free drop-in workshops for making pennant flags from fabric printing and sewing techniques. Participants can drop in anytime 11am-1pm for an activity that takes 30-60 minutes. Children are welcome, but must be accompanied by an adult.

https://coca.org.nz/events/ron-te-kawa-flagmaking

On 22 May, during the final weekend of the exhibition, the artist will demonstrate his sewing and quilt making skills and kōrero with curator Zoe Black on his unique quilting style, how his practice has developed from fashion to education and how Hīnātore: A Time and Place to Rest became a central idea in the exhibition’s kaupapa. Ron will be working in the gallery from 11am-2pm, with the talk scheduled for 12pm.

https://coca.org.nz/events/ron-te-kawa-korero

Hīnātore: A Time and Place to Rest is part of a programme partnership with Auckland public gallery Objectspace which sees the organisations work together to develop and present exhibitions throughout 2021. The workshop programme is in partnership with Bernina.

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Envisaging a symposium

Auckland’s back in business and looking forward to welcoming visitors from Hawkes Bay, Dunedin, Wellington, wherever, at the end of April for the 20-21 CTANZ symposium, Vision: Hindsight, Foresight, Insight, to run at AUT from 30 April to 2 May, with the symposium dinner on Friday night.

We’re delighted to announce that the keynote speakers will be Dr Maureen Lander and Giles Peterson. Maureen needs little introduction to the CTANZ community; she’s been at the forefront of indigenous textile practice in Aotearoa New Zealand for more than three decades. Giles is an educator at Whitecliffe College and an independent curator of Pacific community art. They lead a programme which also includes Angela Rowe, Caroline McQuarrie, Dr Amanda Smith & Rachelle Moore, Dr Tracy Harkison, Grace Lai, Gracie Matthews, Jane Malthus, Katie Day, Linda Tyler, Michaela de Bruce, Moira White, Natalie Smith, Rebekah Harman, Rekha Rana Shailaj, Sally Maclean, Scott Pilkington, Sonya Withers, Stella Lange, Tyla Stevenson and Winnie Edgar-Booty – as always a mix of new and familiar faces exploring the theme and sharing their practice.

Chances are that if you’re not a local, it’s been a while since you were in Auckland, what with one thing and another, so this is an ideal opportunity, and in the nick of time for some of Auckland’s biggest exhibitions as well. We’ll keep posting on some of these as the symposium gets closer, but for more information and to register, the symposium page has now been updated.

MEANWHILE: NATIONAL TREASURES ON A SMALL SCREEN NEAR YOU. After what seems like an age of planning, teasers and trailers, the National Treasures series debuts on TVNZ (TV1 8.30pm or on demand) 7 March.. Featuring input from some of the CTANZ team, and including some pretty special textiles among the taonga, it’s billed as “like watching antiques roadshow with your mum but without the bit where you guess how much things are worth”. And there’s an accompanying exhibition opening at Te Papa on 8 March. For more snippets, try the Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/nationaltreasuresnz/


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Fashion Forward: Disruption through Design ~ Boosted campaign

Fashion FWD >> Disruption through Design is an upcoming exhibition and a celebration of fabulous frocks, beautiful couture and the work and voices of fashion disruptors. Alongside this exhibition of the brazen and the chic, is a lush 220-page catalogue featuring beautiful photography of fashion that defies convention as well as words from emerging design finalists, Dunedin’s Godmothers of fashion, curators, textile and fashion experts. We want your help to get it printed.

This book will be something that will be treasured by those who love fashion and design. Please help us to make it a reality.

Fashion Forward: Disruption through Design –> Boosted campaign

THE EXHIBITION

Fashion FWD >> is a collaboration between Otago Museum, iD Fashion Awards, and Otago Polytechnic, gathering the work of iD Emerging Designer finalists from its inception and garments from around the world, with selected items from Otago Museum’s collection. The exhibition is designed by the Otago Museum creative team who have won prestigious international design awards.

THE CATALOGUE

– 220 pages

– 24 iD Emerging Designer Award finalists from over 16 years

– 42 items from the Otago Museum costume and textile collection

– Interviews with the ‘Godmothers’ of Dunedin Fashion

– Margarita Robertson (NOM*d), Tanya Carlson (Carlson), Sara Munro (Company of Strangers, Donna Tulloch (Mild Red), Charmaine Reveley

– Essay by Ben Barry, Chair and Associate Professor of Equity, Diversity and Inclusion, School of Fashion, Ryerson University, Toronto, Canada. Ben has recently been appointed Dean of Fashion at The New School’s Parsons School of Design in New York

– Essays by curators Moira White, Dr Jane Malthus and Dr Margo Barton

– Designed by the Otago Museum design team

– The publication will be printed locally in Dunedin.

The publication will be available to the public from Saturday 27 March.

WHY WE NEED YOUR HELP

The exhibition was due to open in May 2020. Covid not only pushed back this opening date, but the absence of international visitors left our institution, which is not fully funded, in a less than stable financial position.

While Fashion FWD >> will open 27 March 2021, the ‘nice to haves’ like our beautiful catalogue are no longer possible. This book will be something that will be treasured by those who love fashion and design. Help us to make it a reality.

Fashion Forward: Disruption through Design –> Boosted campaign 

THANKS AND UNBOUNDED GRATITUDE TO

McMillan&Co Lawyers who are match funders. This means that the amount that you donate will double. This generosity is gratefully received.

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More than exhibitions

While the coverage of exhibitions around the country at the moment, there’s almost something for everyone, but if you’re not around Auckland, Opunake, Wairarapa, Wellington or Invercargill, there are still opportunities for textile-y activities both further afield and accessible to all. But get in quick: closing dates are soon

What about an online talk on on The creation of miniature Mughal costumes, via India’s Textile and Clothing Research Centre (TCRC)? Mrs Geeta Khandelwal, a skilled needlewoman and quilter, the author of “Godharis of Maharashtra” and a member of TCRC will share her experiences in conversation with  Dr Toolika Gupta, Director IICD and Secretary TCRC. The talk is 20 February 2021, 3-4pm, which is 10.30(ish) NZ time, hosted on Google meet https://meet.google.com/fiw-ojgp-fio. P

Another quick turnaround is a call for exhibition proposals, closing 1 March.

Internationally, Polly Leonard, founder & editor of Selvedge Magazine, is looking for artisans working with handmade textiles to exhibit at the Selvedge World Fair 2021 – the virtual marketplace that is free for artisans to enter and if selected, free to participate. The Selvedge World Fair a celebration of cloth, culture and creativity will take place online over the course of 5 days 31 August – 4 September 2021. The event will represent textile traditions from at least fifty countries and will offer opportunities for visitor engagement. Applications are open until 28 February 2021. This year’s event has an additional category of cross-cultural collaborations. There’s more info and application details on their website; they’re also accepting suggestions for artisans who they’ll then contact with all the relevant information.

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