What’s going on…

Lots, as it happens.

First up, please note that the CTANZ website has a new web address. Please update your bookmarks to costumeandtextile.nz. The old address will redirect for a while but this is the address at which, very shortly, you will find the newlook Costume and Textile Association posts and pages.

And even though we’re still winding down from another wonderful symposium – thanks, Auckland – there’s more costume and more textiles around the country, starting this week at the University of Waikato. Curated by Liz Cooper at the Foyer Galleries, Gallagher Academy of Performing Arts, Costume & Cause, telling stories, celebrating strength, features work by Victoria McIntosh, Shona Tawhiao and Jo Torr. The work is inspired by female clothing and uses a wide range of textile techniques to consider the theme. Costume & Cause runs until 20 August, and opens Friday 28 May with a panel discussion at which Liz, Victoria, and Jo will talk with Professor Robyn Longhurst about the power of costume and accessories.


Also on Friday 28 May only, in Wellington, the Fashion Design programme at Te Herenga Waka–Victoria University of Wellington is hosting its first one-day expo, Textile Futures: Fashion design and technology. Find out more on https://techweek.co.nz/whats-on/2021/fashion-innovation-expo-98/

Posted in Artists, Auckland, Exhibitions, Hamilton, Official stuff | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Symposium 2021 – textiles and Tāmaki

Not long now until the 2021 CTANZ symposium: Vision: Hindsight, Foresight, Insight, at AUT in central Auckland, 30 April – 2 May. Three days of presentations including keynotes by Dr Maureen Lander and Giles Peterson – you can check out the programme on our symposium page. There’s still time to register, and details on that are also on the symposium page.

There’s plenty of textile art around Auckland for visitors but even locals may not have got round to the latest exhibition: Cloth, at Masterworks Gallery on Queen Street, 17 April – 15 May, celebrating “all that is contemporary textiles in Aotearoa. ” Curated to coincide with the symposium, Cloth ‘ showcases the exciting and innovative talents working in this field today’. On Saturday morning, just before the first scheduled symposium presentation, Bronwyn Lloyd and some of the other exhibiting artists will be at Masterworks to talk about their work.

B. Lloyd Confluence Bag (Thistle) Front Image courtesy of Masterworks

Further afield, Objectspace also includes two textile artists in its Autumn exhibition, with Jade Townsend’s Te Moananui-a-Kiwa, combining natural and inorganic found objects to reflect the connections made by ocean movement. In Matua moe Tama: Weaving Within Magafaoa, Salle Tamatoa and Tunaga Funaki offer an intergenerational conversation based around Niuean weaving techniques. These exhibitions run until 30 May.

At each end of their exhibition cycle are the two major exhibitions at the city’s largest institutions. The exhibition of the year, Toi Tū Toi Ora: Contemporary Māori Art, closes 9 May, although it now offers an online option for those who either can’t get to it, or would like to work out what they want to see first. This exhibition’s textile and textile adjacent work includes two pieces by symposium keynote speaker Maureen Lander.

Te whānau raranga o Waitakere, 2018. Harakeke, muka. Artist Maureen Lander, weavers Helen Bucksey, Joy Eaton, Nina Hamill, Janie Randerson and Ann Uerata. All Rights Reserved

There’s no time pressure however for the Auckland War Memorial Museum’s Tāmaki Herenga Waka: Stories of Auckland. This recently opened new permanent gallery looks at the city’s past, present and future through a broad range of objects and arrangements, including, of course, significant textiles. A shoutout to CTANZ members who have been intimately involved with this major project.

We are fortunate to live in a country where live conferencing is possible, so keep safe for the next two weeks and we’ll see each other for Vision 2021.

Posted in Auckland, Conference, Craft, Exhibitions, Museums, Objectspace, Symposium, Textiles | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Ron Te Kawa, CoCA, March-May

Ron Te Kawa, Kapa Haka Quilt detail Welcome Home. Image supplied by Objectspace

Maungarongo (Ron) Te Kawa of Ngāti Porou has been working prolifically in fashion, art, community development and education across Aotearoa New Zealand for decades. Using sewing as a conduit to connect with people, his legendary workshops have given countless participants the confidence to create and express with fabric. His new exhibition
Hīnātore: A Time and Place to Rest, runs 13 March-22 May at Christchurch’s CoCA Centre of Contemporary Art Toi Moroki, The time and place to rest refers to the six days and nights the Matariki stars spend in a phosphorescent world “that exists to rejuvenate and grow the body, mind and spirit”. Te Kawa recreates this special place as a creative haven in the gallery with both his unique quilting style and the sewing studio within the exhibition.

Ron Te Kawa, quilt detail The Sacred Kūmara Garden Image supplied by Objectspace

“My whakapapa quilts are an invitation to celebrate the fun, colour and magic of te ao Māori and all those things that fill my heart and heal my mind and spirit. Dance, connection to wairua and nature, whānau, whenua, stories, survival, resilience.”

The CoCA show includes workshops and an artist talk. On Saturday 12 March and Thursday 29 April, Energy Signals: Flag Making with Ron Te Kawa offer free drop-in workshops for making pennant flags from fabric printing and sewing techniques. Participants can drop in anytime 11am-1pm for an activity that takes 30-60 minutes. Children are welcome, but must be accompanied by an adult.


On 22 May, during the final weekend of the exhibition, the artist will demonstrate his sewing and quilt making skills and kōrero with curator Zoe Black on his unique quilting style, how his practice has developed from fashion to education and how Hīnātore: A Time and Place to Rest became a central idea in the exhibition’s kaupapa. Ron will be working in the gallery from 11am-2pm, with the talk scheduled for 12pm.


Hīnātore: A Time and Place to Rest is part of a programme partnership with Auckland public gallery Objectspace which sees the organisations work together to develop and present exhibitions throughout 2021. The workshop programme is in partnership with Bernina.

Posted in Artists, Christchurch, Exhibitions, Textiles, Workshops | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Envisaging a symposium

Auckland’s back in business and looking forward to welcoming visitors from Hawkes Bay, Dunedin, Wellington, wherever, at the end of April for the 20-21 CTANZ symposium, Vision: Hindsight, Foresight, Insight, to run at AUT from 30 April to 2 May, with the symposium dinner on Friday night.

We’re delighted to announce that the keynote speakers will be Dr Maureen Lander and Giles Peterson. Maureen needs little introduction to the CTANZ community; she’s been at the forefront of indigenous textile practice in Aotearoa New Zealand for more than three decades. Giles is an educator at Whitecliffe College and an independent curator of Pacific community art. They lead a programme which also includes Angela Rowe, Caroline McQuarrie, Dr Amanda Smith & Rachelle Moore, Dr Tracy Harkison, Grace Lai, Gracie Matthews, Jane Malthus, Katie Day, Linda Tyler, Michaela de Bruce, Moira White, Natalie Smith, Rebekah Harman, Rekha Rana Shailaj, Sally Maclean, Scott Pilkington, Sonya Withers, Stella Lange, Tyla Stevenson and Winnie Edgar-Booty – as always a mix of new and familiar faces exploring the theme and sharing their practice.

Chances are that if you’re not a local, it’s been a while since you were in Auckland, what with one thing and another, so this is an ideal opportunity, and in the nick of time for some of Auckland’s biggest exhibitions as well. We’ll keep posting on some of these as the symposium gets closer, but for more information and to register, the symposium page has now been updated.

MEANWHILE: NATIONAL TREASURES ON A SMALL SCREEN NEAR YOU. After what seems like an age of planning, teasers and trailers, the National Treasures series debuts on TVNZ (TV1 8.30pm or on demand) 7 March.. Featuring input from some of the CTANZ team, and including some pretty special textiles among the taonga, it’s billed as “like watching antiques roadshow with your mum but without the bit where you guess how much things are worth”. And there’s an accompanying exhibition opening at Te Papa on 8 March. For more snippets, try the Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/nationaltreasuresnz/

Posted in Artists, Auckland, Conference, CTANZ people, Museums, Symposium, Television | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Fashion Forward: Disruption through Design ~ Boosted campaign

Fashion FWD >> Disruption through Design is an upcoming exhibition and a celebration of fabulous frocks, beautiful couture and the work and voices of fashion disruptors. Alongside this exhibition of the brazen and the chic, is a lush 220-page catalogue featuring beautiful photography of fashion that defies convention as well as words from emerging design finalists, Dunedin’s Godmothers of fashion, curators, textile and fashion experts. We want your help to get it printed.

This book will be something that will be treasured by those who love fashion and design. Please help us to make it a reality.

Fashion Forward: Disruption through Design –> Boosted campaign


Fashion FWD >> is a collaboration between Otago Museum, iD Fashion Awards, and Otago Polytechnic, gathering the work of iD Emerging Designer finalists from its inception and garments from around the world, with selected items from Otago Museum’s collection. The exhibition is designed by the Otago Museum creative team who have won prestigious international design awards.


– 220 pages

– 24 iD Emerging Designer Award finalists from over 16 years

– 42 items from the Otago Museum costume and textile collection

– Interviews with the ‘Godmothers’ of Dunedin Fashion

– Margarita Robertson (NOM*d), Tanya Carlson (Carlson), Sara Munro (Company of Strangers, Donna Tulloch (Mild Red), Charmaine Reveley

– Essay by Ben Barry, Chair and Associate Professor of Equity, Diversity and Inclusion, School of Fashion, Ryerson University, Toronto, Canada. Ben has recently been appointed Dean of Fashion at The New School’s Parsons School of Design in New York

– Essays by curators Moira White, Dr Jane Malthus and Dr Margo Barton

– Designed by the Otago Museum design team

– The publication will be printed locally in Dunedin.

The publication will be available to the public from Saturday 27 March.


The exhibition was due to open in May 2020. Covid not only pushed back this opening date, but the absence of international visitors left our institution, which is not fully funded, in a less than stable financial position.

While Fashion FWD >> will open 27 March 2021, the ‘nice to haves’ like our beautiful catalogue are no longer possible. This book will be something that will be treasured by those who love fashion and design. Help us to make it a reality.

Fashion Forward: Disruption through Design –> Boosted campaign 


McMillan&Co Lawyers who are match funders. This means that the amount that you donate will double. This generosity is gratefully received.

Posted in Books, Designers, Exhibitions, Publications | Leave a comment

More than exhibitions

While the coverage of exhibitions around the country at the moment, there’s almost something for everyone, but if you’re not around Auckland, Opunake, Wairarapa, Wellington or Invercargill, there are still opportunities for textile-y activities both further afield and accessible to all. But get in quick: closing dates are soon

What about an online talk on on The creation of miniature Mughal costumes, via India’s Textile and Clothing Research Centre (TCRC)? Mrs Geeta Khandelwal, a skilled needlewoman and quilter, the author of “Godharis of Maharashtra” and a member of TCRC will share her experiences in conversation with  Dr Toolika Gupta, Director IICD and Secretary TCRC. The talk is 20 February 2021, 3-4pm, which is 10.30(ish) NZ time, hosted on Google meet https://meet.google.com/fiw-ojgp-fio. P

Another quick turnaround is a call for exhibition proposals, closing 1 March.

Internationally, Polly Leonard, founder & editor of Selvedge Magazine, is looking for artisans working with handmade textiles to exhibit at the Selvedge World Fair 2021 – the virtual marketplace that is free for artisans to enter and if selected, free to participate. The Selvedge World Fair a celebration of cloth, culture and creativity will take place online over the course of 5 days 31 August – 4 September 2021. The event will represent textile traditions from at least fifty countries and will offer opportunities for visitor engagement. Applications are open until 28 February 2021. This year’s event has an additional category of cross-cultural collaborations. There’s more info and application details on their website; they’re also accepting suggestions for artisans who they’ll then contact with all the relevant information.

Posted in Artists, Craft, Exhibitions, International, Textiles | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

PAIN CANOPY YEAST STEAK, Jess Johnson, Auckland

Alwaysy (detail) 2020, unique digital print on cotton with pieced fabric border, assorted textiles, thread, 1450 x 1400mm. Image: Jane Groufsky

On the Saturday before the latest Level 3 Covid announcement, Jess Johnson and Cynthia Johnson were able to celebrate the opening of Jess’ latest exhibition PAIN CANOPY YEAST STEAK at the newly relocated Ivan Anthony gallery in Grey Lynn. Among framed pen, acrylic and goache works by Jess are four new quilts created in collaboration with her mother, artist and veteran quiltmaker Cynthia.

Previous quilts that have come out of this partnership were first shown at Auckland Art Fair in 2018. These initial works were formed from a large panel of Jess’ art, digitally printed on cotton and finished into a quilt with a pieced border by Cynthia. In the latest works shown at Ivan Anthony, Cynthia has more freely incorporated Jess’ printed fabric into her contemporary patchwork designs which combine geometric repetition with occasional sinuous applique. Patchwork quilts are a fitting medium for echoing the rhythmic style of Jess’ painting and drawing, and give a tactile element with their added depth and softness.

Ditto Blank and Spice Agony at Ivan Anthony Gallery Image: Jane Groufsky

Fortunately Aucklanders are now back at Level 2 and can once again see the show, on at Ivan Anthony at 564 Great North Road until 9 March , or see the works online: http://www.ivananthony.com/jess-johnson-pain-canopy-yeast-steak-2021

Text and images Jane Groufsky

Posted in Artists, Auckland, Exhibitions | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Caroline McQuarrie, The New Sun – Wellington

They gave you a list, 2021. Linen and cotton thread (framed). 375 x 375mm.
Jhana Millers Gallery, Wellington – 11 February – 13 March 2021 – Opening 5.30pm, Thursday 11 February – Artist talk with Heather Galbraith, Saturday 6 March, 2pm

Caroline McQuarrie’s primary artistic interest is the concept of home, wherever it’s located. A senior lecturer in photography at Whiti o Rehua School of Art, College of Creative Arts, Massey University, her practice combines photography and embroidery. This latest exhibition, The New Sun “juxtaposes the empirical finds of land trace with the more speculative imaginings of what life might with the more speculative imaginings of what life might have entailed for the women living with, or alongside, the male miners within early settler-colonial Aotearoa.”

Tailings, 2016. Digital photographic print from film scan. (framed). 830 x 830mm

The photographs of sites of former mining activity were taken when McQuarrie was regularly travelling around Aotearoa between 2013 and 2016. While many sites are marked as historic by signs or plaques, others are “hiding in plain sight. Landforms shaped by 19th century mining for gold and quartz. These undulations, channels and (now rarely) structures are what tangibly remain from the brutal process of extraction of minerals from the land, that was fuelled by so many aspirations for prosperity. Brutal for the ecology of the land and brutal for the miners engaged in such perilous and back-breaking activity.”

His labour is gouged into the land, 2021. Linen and cotton thread (framed). 375 x 375mm.

The counterpoint is the linen textiles, hand-embroidered texts written by the artist to “consider the female experiences on linen. The texts in these works, written by the artist, consider the female experience, ‘filling in’ for records that are very thin on the ground. These works seek to offer a new way into thinking about this period of our history, to achieve a richer understanding of the legacies and traces threading between then and now, there and here.”

Extracts taken from the full Essay by Heather Galbraith: The New Sun: new photographic and textile work by Caroline McQuarrie.  Images supplied by Caroline McQuarrie

The photographs in this exhibition have been made on the rohe of Ngāti Waewae, Kati Mahaki ki Makaawhio and Kati Huirapa ki Puketeraki (Ngāi Tahu) and Ngāti Hauā (Waikato Tainui).

Jhana Millers website: https://jhanamillers.com/exhibitions/2021/carolinemcquarrie_thenewsun.html

Posted in Artists, Embroidery, Exhibitions, History, Photography | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

More exhibitions

Photo courtesy of Aratoi, Wairarapa Museum of Art and History

A postscript to last week’s exhibition posting: there’s more to visit in the lower North Island. At Masterton’s Aratoi, Wairarapa Museum of Art and History, Whakatau Miromiro showcases Terri Te Tau’s embroidery on linen. The work “was created in conversation with Māori and Pacifika scientists who shared whakataukī around particular species they work with and the relationships revealed through those whakataukī”.  It’s on until 21 March, and the gallery promises more textile shows for later in the year: we’ll keep you updated.

Two masks: Photo: CDK Baughen

Further up the road, Viv Davy’s From Out of the Blue Gallery in Opunake offers Dreaming of the Future, Selected works by New Zealand members of The Surface Design Association. The works on show include Stella Lange’s masks (as seen in the latest Context) as well as others by artists from Taranaki, Rotorua and Dunedin. Although it’s only on until 15 February, the gallery website links to an online version, and will include online artist talks and studio visits.

(If anyone who gets to see these would like to review the exhibition for Context, please let us know.)

Posted in Artists, Craft, CTANZ people, Embroidery, Exhibitions, Taranaki, Textiles | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Summer viewing

The holiday preview is late this year, but there are textile and dress exhibitions to be found from one end of the country to the other this summer. Starting with Michele Beevors in Invercargill. Yes, those giant skeletal animals on the right are textile: knitted, in fact. Traded is one of the opening exhibitions at He Waka Tuia, , the partnership of the Southland Museum and Art Gallery and the Invercargill Public Art Gallery which has been established since the closure of the Southland Museum. This imposing work by Dunedin-based Beevors will be on display until March.

Moving northwards, at the Christchurch Art Gallery through to the end of February, textile artist Emma Fitts is part of Touching Sight, an exhibition of new work by three local artists. Over the water, at the Dowse, Creating Potential showcases Veranoa Hetet’s weaving of and for past and future. Across to Pataka, where Yuki Kihara merges her cultural traditions of Sāmoan siapo and Japanese kimono in (Sāmoa no uta) A Song About Sāmoa.

Tivaevae gown, Karen Walker and Kūki ‘Airani Creative Māmās, led by Aitutaki-born Tukua Turia

Finally, back in Auckland, everyone’s been talking about Toi Tū Toi Ora at Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki. This exhibition’s many highlights include work by Maureen Lander, both on her own and in collaboration with Mata Aho. And the New Zealand Fashion Museum’s Moana Currents: Dressing Aotearoa Now is having another run, at
Māngere Arts Centre – Ngā Tohu o Uenuku.

Aside from Moana Currents, which finishes on 12 February, most of these exhibitions are on until 28 February. And Toi Tū Toi Ora runs until May – which means an opportunity to see it for those travelling to Auckland for the CTANZ symposium at the end of April. Enjoy your summer, inside and out, and keep us posted of any other exhibitions of interest coming up during 2021.

Posted in Artists, Auckland, Christchurch, Craft, Dowse Art Museum, Emma Fitts, Exhibitions, knitting, Local events, Maori, Museums, New Zealand Fashion Museum, Pacific Islands, Textiles, Weaving, Wellington | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment